ICBRKR GUIDE: VIENNA by Eva D
Eva D. is an Urban Explorer, Fellow Foodie and Art Aficionado and loves music, wellness and yoga. She likes to be out and about and can't really sit still for too long. She'd definitely compromise sleep to see even more of a new place! If you recognise yourself in that description, Eva's travel diary will help you decide where to stay, eat, hang out, and play.
Vienna is not only the city with the highest quality of living for 10 years running, but also the most beautiful city in Europe. Oh, by the way, I am biased — Vienna is my hometown.
WHEN TO VISIT & INSIDER TIPS
Whenever I come visit for Christmas, the city never fails to impress with its beautifully illuminated architecture and the famous Christmas markets — but beware, most of those close on December 23. My favourites are Karlsplatz (which features only products craftet in Austria), Altes AKH, Zwischen den Museen, Belvedere and Schönbrunn.
If you stay for New Year’s Day, try to get up (or stay up) for the infamous “Neujahrskonzert” at 11am, which plays on pretty much all TVs around the country, since tickets are also infamously impossible to get a hold of.
If you visit in January or February, make sure to attend one of the renowned balls — there is at least one every week at the most impressive venues. I would recommend Techniker Cercle at Musikverein, Jaegerball at the Hofburg (the Hunters’ Ball, for which Austrians get out their most precious Dirndl or Trachtenanzug), or Opernball at the Staatsoper.
Traditionally, Vienna was also home to a slightly different ball, the Life Ball, held in May at Vienna’s City Hall. Themed differently every year — from the four elements to The Sound of Music, and Arabian nights to fairy tales — it was “fighting AIDS and celebrating life” since 1993. On the day of the event, the square in front of the City Hall would be transformed into a massive stage, featuring a contest for the most elaborate outfits, a fashion show, and performances from some of the many celebrity guests. Sadly, 2019 marked the last time this event was held... but rumour has it there might be a relaunch, so watch this space!
All summer long, the state opera broadcasts most of their Operas Live Outdoors. At the same time, there’s the Film Festival happening outside the City Hall, accompanied by a big food market.
If you want to escape the city for a few hours, consider hiking in the vineyards that surround Vienna, and make sure to stop at lots of “Weinschenken” and “Heurigern” along the way. There’s even a dedicated Vienna Wine Hiking Day weekend at the end of September. If you just want to try Austrian wines without the hike, look up your closest Wein & Co.
WHAT NOT TO MISS
Recommended by ICBRKR
Hofburg Palace
Austrian National Library
The Christmas market at Belvedere, courtesy of Instagram
Hofburg Palace
Austrian National Library (Österreichische Staatsbibliothek)
Belvedere Palace (make sure to visit the resident Klimt & Schiele exhibition, and wander around the gardens between the buildings)
St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom)
Ride the tram along the Vienna Ring Road (Ringstrasse)
Stadtpark
A classical music concert at Wiener Philharmoniker
Museumquartier (which houses the Leopold Museum, Mumok and Kunsthalle.)
Kunst Historisches Museum (where the “Kunstschatzi” event is hosted one Tuesday a month)
WHERE TO STAY
Vienna is organised around two key roads. The smaller one — the “Ring” — circles the city centre. The bigger one — Gürtel (“belt” in English) — wraps around the inner districts. As a visitor, you certainly want to stay within Gürtel, and as close to Ring as you can get.
Leo Grand
Grand Hotel Ferdinand
Hotel MOTTO
I would personally recommend staying in an Airbnb in “Innere Stadt” (1010), “Mariahilf” (1060), “Neubau” (1070) or “Josefstadt” (1080), or at Grand Hotel Ferdinand, 25hours, Max Brown, or Guesthouse.
There’s also MAGDA’s, a hotel run by professional hoteliers and former refugees in the middle of Vienna’s green oasis — “Prater” — sustainably designed by using upcycled furniture, striving to help “change the world while you sleep.” Truly inspiring.
Recommendations from ICBRKR:
Leo Grand
Hotel MOTTO
The Guesthouse Vienna
ALTSTADT Vienna
Andaz Vienna
Grand Hotel Ferdinand
WHERE TO EAT
meissl und schadn
Some of the delicacies served at the stylish Creme de la Creme
All of those are not only popular for accommodation but also with foodies: Grand Ferdinand’s Meissl und Schadn features a modern twist on Schnitzel and Gulasch. If you stay in the hotel, you can also access their rooftop dining, bar and pool area “Grand Étage.”
The Guesthouse’s Brasserie & Bakery is very popular for breakfast, while Max Brown’s restaurant, Seven North, is the place to go for Israeli street food style dinners prepared by Eyal Shani — definitely try the Roast Beef and order the sourdough with crème fraiche dip while you wait. For a drink with a view, head to 25hours’ Dachboden.
For traditional patisserie with a modern twist — or brunch in a modern setting — head to Creme de la Creme or Paremi. Other brunch spots are Salonplafond (ask for a table outside), Sneak in and Motto am Fluss. For really good bread (as strange as it sounds, but Austrians are crazy about really good bread!), head to Öfferl or Joseph Brot.
WHERE TO HANG OUT
During the day, check out Palmenhaus inside Burggarten, or hang out on one of the Enzis in the courtyard of Museumsquartier. You will also find lots of bars, food stalls and sometimes concerts along the “Donaukanal” around Schwedenplatz.
For a proper night out, check out the lineup at Grelle Forelle, Pratersauna, or Sass. Also, the guys who used to run nightclub Horst have just opened their new project, O, and the lineup they’ve just announced for the upcoming months sounds very promising...
If you just want to go for a cocktail, pop into Parfumerie, Roberto’s or any of the Kleinod bars — the original or the recently opened “Prunkstueck.” Or, if you are lucky and know someone with a key, hit up members club “Club X.” If you happen to be around on a Tuesday night in summer, head to Technocafe at Volksgarten Pavillon. On pretty much any other summer night, head to Kleinod Stadtgarten.
The best way to explore Vienna’s beauty is to walk through the city centre and around the “Ring” — there is amazing architecture to be found (look up some classics here). Schoenbrunn is also definitely worth a visit, especially if you enjoy history or strolling around vast English gardens. If you do, make your way up to the Gloriette for a coffee. And arguably no visit to Vienna would be complete without experiencing some live classical music — like visiting the opera or Musikverein.
If you feel like exploring museums or exhibitions, check out what’s on at Kunsthaus, Kunst Historisches Museum (where the “Kunstschatzi” event is hosted one Tuesday a month), Belvedere (make sure to visit the resident Klimt & Schiele exhibition, and wander around the gardens between the buildings), Albertina, or Museumquartier, which houses the Leopold Museum, Mumok and Kunsthalle.
WHERE TO WORK OUT
For your daily zen, go to Doktor Yoga, Coming Hooomm or contact Irene for her schedule. If spinning is your thing, check out Super Cycle or Sound Cycle. If you’re a runner, jog over to Prater or along the Danube.
WHERE TO SHOP
If you’re in the mood for shopping, hit up Lederleitner’s Concept Store at Tuchlauben, second-hand store Bocca Lupa, jeweler New One, and Boutique Weiss, Park and Ava’s Cabinet. Beware though: shop opening hours are not very liberal, especially on weekends.